Suede calfskin has always had a special place in our collection for its sophisticated appearance and its naturally water-repellent properties. In this article, we are going to focus on one of these very particular leathers that we are offering for the first time this winter, Waxy Commander.
The latter is part of what we call oiled suede calves or rough-out suedes . It is sometimes wrongly nicknamed “reverse deer”. Indeed, the flesh side (rough) is presented towards the outside (out).
Specialty of the Stead Tannery , whose know-how is no longer presented when it comes to suede calves, it is interesting to stop for a few moments on its manufacturing (I) which gives it this very unique appearance (II), requiring no little maintenance (III).
Presentation of the Waxy Commander
The tanning method used by Stead provides a characteristic, textured and extremely durable suede calfskin. As the name suggests, a particularly rich and thick blend of oils and waxes is used when treating the skin. The fibrous structure of the latter will then tighten by absorbing this mixture, which causes the leather to shrink by up to -25%.
The skin is thus deeply nourished, making it oily and above all waterproof. It is therefore waxed both on the surface and during its tanning, which offers it a double barrier of protection against the elements.
The drying technique thus applied by Stead therefore results in a fairly significant reduction in the skin's skin.
This might appear unprofitable to some, and it is actually not a solution traditionally adopted by other tanneries. The latter in fact favor drying using infrared lamps to avoid heating the skin and therefore shrinking it. Stead here chooses to spread the leather on wooden racks using a more traditional technique.
If part of the skin is “sacrificed” because it is reduced, the skin thus obtained is more resistant and gives Stead the reputation and quality that we know and recognize. The result is a product that is not only waterproof but also has a great depth of character.
Indeed, the Waxy Commander has a raw and unique appearance. It is even common for two feet of the same pair of shoes to have different irregularities, which is what makes it so charming.
The upper layer of this leather takes on a thatch texture and, due to its oily nature, has a depth of texture revealing the folds and other arrangements of the leather. It thus presents a more casual appearance than a classic suede calfskin.
It is also one of those leathers that becomes more beautiful with time. It allows you to create unique pairs of shoes whose rich color combines with the waxes and develops a pretty patina of character. You will find it on the Moissac Dainite and the Rennan Boots Dainite.
Athithane wears the Moissac Dainite. Find his test and review of the model in the Comme un truck article (Photo credits: @commeuncamion @aurorefouchez_)
Interview
Oily velvet offers quite astonishing characteristics of robustness, requiring little maintenance. The famous scratch test allows you to see this quite quickly: make a small scratch with your nail on the leather and rub the marked area with your finger or a damp cloth to make it disappear.
Its maintenance is therefore quite simple, only two products are necessary: a classic brush and a protective oil.
For weekly or daily maintenance, the brush is more than enough. Brush the leather to remove all dirt. You can also use a crepe brush for more stubborn stains (to use locally on these).
For more in-depth maintenance, rather monthly but depending above all on whether or not you use the shoes intensely, the use of an oil is recommended. We prefer the aerosol format to prevent the leather hairs from sticking together, but a special oily leather cream can also be used.
